You will all have to excuse the poverty of my writing in this message from the Japans but I am very tired at this moment having just returned from the coast. My mother-in-law, the redoubtable Mariko-chan, wanted to take us to a volcanic hot spring last time we were here but time and events were not blessed by the gods so it didn`t happen. As a result we took a train at 10 yesterday morning, the coastal dancer (not as fast as the Shinkansen but equally as impressive especially over mountains), and arrived at a hotel on a beach somewhere on the southern peninsula by 1.30.
The hotel was a ryokhan which is a traditional Japanese establishment. Our accommodation was a sumptuous 14 tatami mat lounge, 6 tatami mat dressing area, full Japanese bathroom (Toto was there), lobby and a full picture window giving a magnificent view. We were on the 9th floor, over the local fishing village, the beach and the pacific beyond. Inside our lounge we were furnished with absolute full on Japanese furniture and the full monty in tea ceremony kit. All that was missing was the woman to serve the tea. She duly arrived within minutes of us settling in and on her knees she began to slide across the tatami mats pushing a tray of green tea before her.
I was busy putting my kimino on, supplied in the room, and practising my gruffest samuri lord of the manor voice. With absolute authority I said "Woman, hurry up with that tea or your children will be orphans tonight".
Akane later told me that what I had actually said was " How many fresh turtles should I wear on my head". That would account for Mariko`s giggles and the bizarre look the serving woman gave me.
I should have remarked earlier that Mariko was in full kimono and trimmings from the moment we left home. She likes to travel formally and when she stayed with us two years ago she even went into London dressed to the nines in her traditional garb. Amazing for a senior lady who speaks no English, she tottered off on those funny shoes that look like a piece of a Chinese puzzle cube and negotiated London by the tube and still made it to Harrods! Not suprising as she is a cutting edge shopper, never come between her and a bargain unless you want blood spilled.
Anyway, back to the Pacific coast and the green tea. Swallowed that and was off down the beach. This involved getting the lift from outside our suite, dropping down nine floors, letting the doors open and walking straight out onto the beach. Absolutely no fucking around on any level.
I have to report that the day was sunny, that perfect sort of heat for a beach day, baking with a light offshore breeze bring fresh cool air straight to your lungs. The ocean was as warm as a pleasant bath, that perfect bath temprature, not a chill in it and yet nothing to sweat over, just peachy. So with the verdant green covered mountains behind, the text book quaint fishing village to the side and the turquoise blue, coloured fish filled water before me, I dived in and didn`t come out for nearly two hours.
I must admit I did try to send Akane back to the hotel to bring me a beer back but she said something short and sharp in Japanese and I didn`t get my beer. I think what she said was "Jack darling, I am quite happy floating in liquid heaven at this moment in time so if you want a beer my love please feel free to get one yourself" or words to that effect.
Whatever the beer situation we were both having a wonderful time in the Pacific however that was not the reason we had come to this hotel in this particular spot. That reason was the existence of hot mineral spas rising up from the volcanic vents below. This water had been pumped into the third floor of the hotel and formed two seperate hot spring bathing areas, the male side and the female side. You will of course allow for the fact that I cannot speak for the female facilities being at all times a gentleman but I will be describing the spa facilities for men in my next mail together with the delights of a traditional evening meal in the hotel. I can give you a clue as to where this story will lead, it has to do with fish and how very little the hotel must spend on fuel bills.
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