The Onsen, volcanic hot spring spa, is a pleasure of which I can never tire. If you need to remember who you are and what your life is really about then the onsen is one of the places where you can take a weary soul. However it is important for me that the journey is to a Ryokan, a traditional Japanese hotel, rather than something which panders towards the needs of the outsider, the tourist hoard.
Our favourite ryokan is near Nagano, not far from the ski resort Shiga Kogen. What makes this place special, and we have been here at least once every year for the last six years, is that it has a balance between all the elements of Japanese hostelry in which tradition is maintained alongside a gentle innovation that makes this ryokan very accessible for the non-Japanese traveller. The main innovation is in the food, always a problematic area for those unfamiliar with the cuisine. Here the chef combines the traditional Japanese with the skills he learnt training in Italy. In a subtle blend the menu delights the senses with a masterful display of the art of presentation and flavour.
Sleeping in the Japanese style of futons on tatami mat floor may not appeal to some travellers so best they go somewhere else; Disneyland perhaps! For us it is an absolute delight and having taken to this kind of sleeping arrangement we fail to understand the attraction of sleeping in "beds" which feel akin to trying to rest in a rowing boat. The tatami mat floor provides a firm yet springy base, the futon a shallow draught mattress and the comfort and quality of sleep is unimpeachable. True, it may take a little getting used to and if you are one of life's moaners, someone who can find a problem where others see a delight, then again, go and get your photo taken with Mickey Mouse.
The room is spacious and separated into three areas. There is a toilet, sink and refrigerator in a separate space and a small private tub into which the hot volcanic spring water flows. At one end the sliding doors lead out into a pristine Japanese zen garden, at the other end there is a wooden verandah which overlooks the forest and mountainside.
On returning from your evening meal you will find your futons all laid out in your room. Perhaps a cigarette is to be enjoyed with Honourable Uncle (HU), maybe a glass of beer on the verandah, but after an hour or so it is time then to go down to the onsen baths and just luxuriate in hot water.
A view back into the room from the verandah with the forest reflecting on the glass. Every room in the Ryokan has a similar layout and the facilities within each are identical. There is only one standard and that is "superb". Each room is positioned to provide a view of the local natural beauty.
Everywhere there are examples of a fine art of decoration and even my own presence is unable to detract from the beauty of the place.
Your meals are in your own private dining room. As you can see in the image below these are found down a long corridor. To the left of HU you can see sliding doors and behind these is a dining room.
Our dining room is right at the end of the hallway but has the benefit of a view out into the garden and world beyond. This is where we eat our evening meal and the morning's breakfast.
The meals are served at the table by the ladies in pristine kimonos. Manners are impeccable and the traditional rituals of serving food are observed. The dishes keep coming and it seems more like a banquet than a "hotel supper".
This is my favourite ryokan and in all our years here and travels around others we have yet to find one which can compete on quality, service, ambience, facility and price. The image below gives you an available "cheap hotel" in London for a price way above the cost of staying at this ryokan (meals included). Actually I find it not just embarrassing but humiliating to even think of the way we rape the wallets of travellers to London without a shred of quality or hint of customer service and value. Our consumer society is a shameful exploitation of common humanity by the soulless bean counters which are the parasites of the world. This is not to say that Japan is devoid of consumer exploitation or bean counters but within their society there remains a sense of duty in providing service and places of quality and value are much easier to find than in the consumer slaughterhouse which is the UK.
No comments:
Post a Comment